Sardinia

Is 5 days enough for Sardinia?

Honestly, for a proper island trip you need 10 days. But with 5 days you can still see the best of the south and interior without rushing. This itinerary avoids the northern Costa Smeralda (too far, too crowded in July) and focuses on beaches, a gorge and Cagliari. You will need a rental car. The driving is slow on coastal roads, so keep that in mind.

Day 1: Cagliari, Castello and the best gelato

Morning (9:00, 12:30) Land at Cagliari Elmas airport. Pick up your rental car at the airport (book a small car, around EUR 35 per day with full insurance). Drive to your hotel or B&B in the Castello district. Park at the public parking at Piazza Mercato (EUR 20 for 24 hours). Walk up to the Bastione Saint Remy. The view over the marina and salt flats is free and open 24 hours.

Lunch Skip the tourist menus on Piazza Yenne. Walk 5 minutes to Via Sardegna. A focaccia with local pecorino and tomatoes costs EUR 6. Eat standing at the counter.

Afternoon (14:00, 17:00) Visit the Cattedrale di Santa Maria (free, open 10:00, 18:00). The crypt has a beautiful 13th century floor. Then walk to the Roman Amphitheatre (EUR 5, closed on Mondays in summer, check). It is small. 20 minutes is enough. Better: walk down to the Marina district and along the Poetto beach. The sand is white, the water is clean. Bring a towel and swim for 30 minutes.

Evening (19:00, 21:00) Dinner in the Marina district. Avoid the main drag on Via Roma. A trattoria on a side street serves a good spaghetti ai ricci (sea urchin) for EUR 15. A glass of Vermentino is EUR 4. Book a table by 18:00 if you want to sit outside.

What to book ahead: rental car, hotel in Castello.

Day 2: Costa Rei, all day on the beach

Morning (8:30, 13:00) Drive from Cagliari to Costa Rei (50 km, 1 hour on the SS125). Leave early to beat the heat. Park at the free municipal lot near Spiaggia di Costa Rei. Walk 5 minutes to the sand. The water is shallow and turquoise. Rent an umbrella and two loungers for EUR 25 (arrive before 10:00 or they are gone).

Lunch Pack a picnic from the Conad supermarket in Castello (EUR 12 for bread, cheese, fruit and water). Drinks from the beach bar cost EUR 5 for a can of beer.

Afternoon (14:00, 17:00) Drive 10 minutes south to Cala Sinzias. It is quieter than Costa Rei. The dirt road is bumpy but a small car can manage. No umbrellas for rent. Bring a sunshade. The water is shallow and clear. Swim out to the rocky island 200 meters offshore.

Evening (18:30, 20:30) Drive back to Cagliari. Dinner at a trattoria in the Stampace district. A mixed grill (porceddu, lamb, sausage) costs EUR 18. Finish with a mirto digestif (EUR 3).

What to book ahead: nothing. But buy snacks the night before.

Day 3: Gola Su Gorropu, hiking in the canyon

Morning (7:00, 12:00) Drive from Cagliari to the Gorropu gorge (90 km, 1 hour 45 minutes on the SS125 and SP27). Enter through the Genna Silana entrance. You must have a permit (EUR 10 per person, book at gorropu.com 3 days before). The hike down into the gorge is 3 km, takes 1 hour 15 minutes each way, and is steep but not technical. The walls are 400 meters high. Bring 1.5 liters of water per person. The sun hits the canyon floor around 11:00, so go early.

Lunch Pack a sandwich from Cagliari. No shops at the gorge. Eat in the shade of the canyon walls.

Afternoon (13:00, 16:00) Drive 20 minutes to the village of Urzulei. Visit the Grotta del Bue Marino (EUR 12, guided tour every hour until 17:00, last entry 16:00). The cave is 1.5 km long. Wear closed shoes. The boat ride inside is cool and dark, a relief from the heat.

Evening (18:00, 20:00) Drive to the town of Orgosolo (30 minutes). See the murals painted in the 1960s and 70s. They cover the walls of the old town. Walk the streets for free. Have dinner at a local agriturismo: a fixed menu of cheese, cured meats, pasta and roast pig for EUR 28 per person. Book by 16:00 by calling the agriturismo (ask your hotel in Cagliari to do it).

What to book ahead: Gorropu permit, agriturismo dinner in Orgosolo.

Day 4: The Gulf of Orosei, Cala Luna and Cala Gonone

Morning (6:30, 12:00) Drive from Cagliari to Cala Gonone (160 km, 2 hours 15 minutes via the SS125 and SS131). Park in the free lot near the port. Take the 8:15 public ferry from Cala Gonone to Cala Luna (EUR 15 round trip, buy tickets at the port kiosk at 7:30). The ride is 20 minutes. Cala Luna is a white pebble beach with a sea cave on the left. Snorkel in the cave. The water is 5 meters deep and clear. No umbrellas, no shops. Bring all supplies.

Lunch Your packed lunch on the beach.

Afternoon (13:00, 15:00) Take the 13:00 ferry back to Cala Gonone. On the return, the boat stops at Cala Sisine for 20 minutes. Jump off, swim, get back on. Or stay on the boat. The scenery of the limestone cliffs is worth the ticket alone.

Evening (16:30, 20:00) Drive to the town of Dorgali (15 km, 20 minutes). Visit the Museo Archeologico (EUR 5, open until 19:00). The nuraghe bronzes are small but fine. Dinner in Dorgali: a pizzeria near the main square. A large pizza and a beer costs EUR 14. Drive back to Cagliari in the dark (2 hours 15 minutes).

What to book ahead: ferry tickets (buy in person at 7:30, no online booking needed this year).

Day 5: Nora ruins and the beach at Chia

Morning (9:00, 12:30) Drive from Cagliari to Nora (40 km, 45 minutes on the SS195). The ruins are on a peninsula. Entrance is EUR 8. Open from 9:00 to 18:00 (last entry 17:00). The Roman mosaics (fish, dolphins, sea gods) are in excellent condition. The theatre seats 500. Walk the entire site in 2 hours. The water around the ruins is shallow and clear, you can swim off the rocks at the tip.

Lunch Drive 10 minutes south to the village of Chia. A plate of fregola with clams at a small beachfront bar costs EUR 13.

Afternoon (14:00, 17:00) Spend the afternoon on Spiaggia di Chia. It is a long beach with sand dunes. The wind picks up around 15:00. Walk to the far end (1 km) for fewer people. No umbrellas for rent. Bring a windbreaker. The water is clear and blue.

Evening (18:00, 20:00) Drive to the Torre di Chia (free, 15 minute walk from the beach). Climb the tower for the last view of the coast. Then drive back to Cagliari airport (55 minutes) or your hotel.

What to book ahead: nothing.

Where to stay for this itinerary

Cagliari, Castello district, central for days 1, 2 and 5. Typical EUR 120 per night for a double room in July. Book in June.

Orgosolo or Dorgali, closer to the gorge and Orosei coast. EUR 90 per night for a simple B&B. Quieter, less choice.

Cala Gonone, right on the port. EUR 140 per night. Better for day 4 if you don't want to drive back to Cagliari.

Practical tips

Rent a small car (Fiat Panda or similar) from the airport. Book online 2 weeks ahead. Avoid renting from the city centre offices, they close early.

The SS125 road is winding and slow. Google Maps may say 1 hour for 50 km. Add 20 minutes for real driving.

Buy all sunscreen in Cagliari. Beach shops in small villages charge double.

Most public beaches charge EUR 3 to EUR 5 for parking if there is an attendant. Keep EUR 20 in coins.

Mistake to avoid: don't walk on the dunes at Chia. Fines start at EUR 100.

If you are a solo traveler, skip the agriturismo dinner unless you are fine with social eating. Beaches are safe for solo swimmers.

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