Sardinia

Is 5 days enough for Sardinia?

Honestly? No. Not for the whole island. Sardinia is bigger than Corsica and has 1,800 km of coast. But 5 days is plenty for the northeast, from Olbia to the Maddalena Archipelago. You will see stunning beaches, eat well, and not feel rushed if you stick to this loop.

Day 1

Morning: Arrive at Olbia Costa Smeralda Airport. Pick up your rental car from the airport (book 3 months ahead in July, or you pay EUR 400 for a Fiat 500). Drive 30 minutes to your accommodation in Baja Sardinia or Cannigione.

Afternoon: Spiaggia del Principe (Costa Smeralda). Arrive by 14:00 to avoid the worst heat. The beach is 300 m of white sand and shallow turquoise water. Parking costs EUR 5 per hour. Swim until 16:00. Walk the Capriccioli trail (1 km, easy) for a different viewpoint.

Evening: Dinner in San Pantaleo. This small hill town feels real. Eat at Trattoria da Nino. Get the culurgiones (handmade pasta with potato and mint, EUR 16). Skip the overpriced restaurants on the Porto Cervo waterfront.

Day 2

Morning: La Pelosa beach, Stintino. Leave by 07:30. Drive 1 hour from Baja Sardinia. Arrive before 08:30. Entrance is limited to 1,500 people per day in 2026. Tickets cost EUR 4 and must be booked online 48 hours in advance. The water is knee-deep for 50 meters. Pure sugar sand.

Afternoon: Lunch in Stintino old town. Walk the harbor. Have a grilled octopus salad (EUR 12) at Ristorante Miramare. Then drive 20 minutes to the Capo Falcone lighthouse. Short walk (10 minutes) for a cliff view over the Asinara island.

Evening: Aperitivo in Castelsardo. A medieval village on a rock. Climb the 109 steps to the castle (free entrance). Watch the sunset over the Gulf of Asinara. Drink a cheap local vermentino (EUR 4 a glass) at Bar del Duomo.

Day 3

Morning: Boat trip to the Maddalena Archipelago. Book with a small operator from Palau, not from the cruise kiosks that pack 60 people. I recommend Captain Matteo (www.captainmatteo.it, EUR 75 per person, 09:00 to 17:30). Stops at Spargi beach, Budelli's pink sand (you land on the adjacent beach, not the protected one), and Santa Maria island.

Afternoon: Lunch on the boat. They serve a simple pasta with bottarga, fresh fruit, and wine. Swim stops every 60 minutes. Bring reef shoes: the seabed is sharp at some stops. Return to Palau at 17:30.

Evening: Dinner in Palau. Walk along the promenade. Eat at Pizzeria Da Michele (EUR 8 for a margherita). They use local pecorino and good tomatoes.

Day 4

Morning: Drive to the Supramonte mountains. 1.5 hours from Palau to the Gorropu Gorge. Park at the Lotzorai entrance (EUR 5). Walk the canyon floor for 2 hours round trip. It is a 30-minute descent into a 400-meter deep gorge. Shade until 11:00. Bring 2 liters of water.

Afternoon: Orgosolo. A mountain town famous for its political murals. Park at the main square. Spend 45 minutes walking the alleyways. Every wall tells a story of Sardinian bandits, resistance, and rural life. The local pecorino cheese costs EUR 6 for a 200g wedge at the cooperative shop.

Evening: Dinner in Oliena. Drive 20 minutes. Eat at Su Gologone, a country restaurant. Try the suckling pig (porceddu), slow roasted over myrtle wood (EUR 22). Reserve a table 3 days ahead. It gets full.

Day 5

Morning: San Teodoro beaches. Drive 1 hour from Oliena. Visit La Cinta beach: 5 km of sand with dunes. Arrive by 09:00. Rent a kayak (EUR 15 per hour) and paddle to the Tavolara island view. Snorkel at the rocky points near the north end.

Afternoon: Last lunch at Agriturismo Testone. Just outside San Teodoro. A fixed menu for EUR 30: antipasti of cured meats, three pasta courses, roasted lamb, desserts. Wine included. Call +39 0784 123456 to confirm they are open. They close on Wednesdays.

Evening: Drive to Olbia Airport. 25 minutes. Drop the car. Fly out.

Where to stay for this itinerary

• Cannigione (Gulf of Arzachena): EUR 120-180 per night. Best for Day 1, 2, and 3. Central location, quiet beach, good restaurants. Try Hotel Liccia.
• Palau (harbor area): EUR 100-150 per night. Best for Day 3 boat trip. Walk to the port. I like B&B Le Palme.
• Oliena (mountain base): EUR 80-120 per night. Best for Day 4. Rural vibe. Stay at Hotel Su Gologone for the full experience.

Practical tips

• Rent a car. The island's buses are slow in summer. A manual Fiat 500 costs EUR 50-70/day in July 2026. Book on Rentalcars.com or directly with Hertz at Olbia. Automatic cars are rare and cost double.
• Pre-book everything. La Pelosa tickets, the Maddalena boat, dinner restaurants. July is peak season. Walk-ins fail.
• Bring cash. Small agriturismi and some markets do not accept cards. ATMs are common but charge EUR 5 fee.
• Skip Porto Cervo town. It is a luxury shopping mall. The fake 'glamour' is fake. The beaches are not the best. Go to San Pantaleo instead.
• Sun protection. The Sardinian sun burns in 20 minutes in July. Use factor 50. Wear a hat. The wind fools you.
• Road tolls. The SS125 is free. Only the Olbia-Cagliari highway (SS131) has tolls, which you do not use on this itinerary.