Rome

When to go

What to see

Colosseum, Roman Forum & Palatine Hill, 3-4 hours. Book the "Full Experience" ticket (€24 + €2 booking fee) at least 2 weeks ahead. Without a ticket expect a 90-minute queue. Buy the combo ticket that includes the Forum and Palatine. Skip the underground tour unless you are an archaeologist.

Vatican Museums & Sistine Chapel, 4-5 hours. Book a timed entry (€17 + €4 booking fee) online. The queue wraps around the wall by 9:30 AM. Go at 8 AM or 3 PM for smaller crowds. Do not leave without seeing the Laocoön group and the Raphael Rooms. The St. Peter’s Basilica is free, but expect a 30-minute security line.

Trevi Fountain & Spanish Steps, 1 hour total at dawn or 11 PM. Skip the daytime chaos. Throw a coin over your left shoulder. The Spanish Steps are just steps. Go for the view from the top, then leave.

Pantheon, 30 minutes. Now costs €5 entry (new law in 2023). You can book online but the queue moves fast. Stand under the oculus. It is the best preserved ancient building in Rome.

Borghese Gallery, 2 hours. Mandatory booking (€13) weeks ahead. You get a 2-hour slot. See Bernini sculptures and Caravaggio paintings. Skip if you have only 3 days and are not an art lover.

Trastevere, Free to wander. Go for dinner. Skip lunch. The alleys are narrow and the bars are loud at night. Best carbonara in Rome at Da Enzo (€14, cash only).

3-day itinerary

Day 1: Ancient Rome.

1. 8:30 AM, Colosseum (booked for 9 AM, inside by 9:15). Walk the arena floor and the second tier.
2. 11:30 AM, Roman Forum. Exit via the Arch of Titus into Palatine Hill. Lunch at a €5 slice from Pizzarium on Via della Scrofa (20 min walk).
3. 2:00 PM, Pantheon. 30 minutes inside. Then walk to Piazza Navona for a coffee (€2.50 standing at the bar).
4. 4:00 PM, Trevi Fountain (packed but you can squeeze in). Then Spanish Steps at sunset.
5. 8:00 PM, Dinner in Trastevere at Da Enzo. Reservations essential. Pasta comes fast.

Day 2: Vatican City.

1. 8:00 AM, St. Peter’s Square. Enter the Basilica (free). Climb the dome (€8 lift, €6 stairs). View from the top is worth the 550 steps.
2. 10:30 AM, Vatican Museums (booked for 11 AM). Focus on the Sistine Chapel, Raphael Rooms, and the spiral staircase. Skip the modern art wing.
3. 1:30 PM, Lunch at Pasta in Casa (€12, 10 min walk).
4. 3:00 PM, Castel Sant’Angelo (€15). Views of the Tiber. Skip if tired.
5. 7:00 PM, Walk across Ponte Sant’Angelo. Gelato at Giolitti (€4 for 3 scoops).

Day 3: Baroque & Local Life.

1. 9:00 AM, Borghese Gallery (if booked) or a walk through Villa Borghese gardens for free.
2. 11:00 AM, Galleria Doria Pamphilj (€12, no queue). Caravaggio and Velázquez without crowds.
3. 1:00 PM, Lunch at a market like Mercato Centrale Roma (dishes from €8) or Campo de’ Fiori for seasonal produce.
4. 3:00 PM, Walk the Jewish Ghetto. Try the fried artichokes (carciofi alla giudia, €10) from a street vendor.
5. 5:00 PM, Aperitivo at Freni e Frizioni in Trastevere (€8 drink with free snacks).
6. 8:00 PM, Last dinner at Roscioli for the best cacio e pepe (€16).

Where to stay

Getting around

Metro, €1.50 per ride (valid 100 min). Lines A and B cross at Termini. Line C goes to the suburbs. The metro shuts at 1:30 AM (11:30 PM on Sundays). Do not take the metro to the Vatican. Get off at Ottaviano.

Buses, Same €1.50 ticket. Buy from tabacchi. No change. Google Maps works for routes. Buses are slower than walking in the center. Do not get on the 40 or 64 express buses without holding your bag tight. Pickpockets love them.

Trams, Line 8 from Piazza Venezia to Trastevere is handy. Same ticket.

Taxis, Official white cars start at €3.90 inside the ring road. Book via app (FreeNow, Uber works for taxis only). Avoid unmarked cars at the airport (they charge €100+).

Walking, You will walk 15-20 km a day. Wear sturdy shoes. Cobblestones ruin thin soles.

Budget

Mistakes to avoid

Do not buy at the Colosseum ticket booth. The queue is 1 hour long. Buy online or use the Palatine Hill entrance (shorter line). Do not eat at a restaurant with a picture menu near the Trevi Fountain. It costs €18 for a mediocre carbonara. Walk 10 minutes away. Do not throw coins into non-Trevi fountains. It is illegal. The fine is €50. Do not accept a "free" rose from street sellers. They will demand €5 and block your way. Do not visit the Vatican on a Wednesday. The Pope holds a general audience and closes the square until noon. Do not trust the "skip the line" vendors outside the Colosseum. They sell fake tours. Use the official website Coopculture. Do not expect air conditioning in older hotels. Many have window units only. Do not order cappuccino after 11 AM. Locals consider it a breakfast drink. You can, but waiters will judge.