What Just Happened in Rome
Rome just got a major cultural reopening. Palazzo Farnese, the Renaissance palace designed partly by Michelangelo, has finished a long restoration of its famous lion gargoyles. The palace now houses the French embassy. You can visit its courtyard and some halls on guided tours. Book ahead through the French embassy website. The restoration returned over 300 lion heads to their original 16th century look. Read the full story from The Local Italy.
While you're in Rome, skip the midday queue at the Colosseum. Instead, do a late afternoon visit to Palazzo Farnese when the light hits those gargoyles.
The Heatwave Is Real: What To Do
Italy is sweating through a July heatwave. Forecasters say it will last at least another week. Temps in Rome and Florence hit 38°C. The Local Italy reports this one is not as brutal as June's, but it still hurts.
My advice: start your day at 7am. Visit outdoor sites like the Colosseum or the Uffizi right when they open. Go back to your hotel for a long lunch and a nap from 12pm to 4pm. Then resume at 5pm. Carry a 1.5 liter water bottle. Many churches have free water fountains outside.
Puglia: 8 Days of Small Group Tours
One smart way to handle the heat is to let someone else drive. Italy Magazine reports on 8-day small group tours in Puglia. You visit Alberobello's trulli houses, the whitewashed city of Ostuni, and the baroque squares of Lecce. Groups are limited to 12 people. The tour includes air-conditioned transport and lunch at local masserie (farmhouses). That air conditioning alone is worth it in July.
Tuscany & Umbria: Wine and Cooking in the Shade
Staying in Tuscany or Umbria? A combined wine and cooking experience is a good heatwave activity. Italy Magazine features week-long programs where you learn to make pasta in the morning (cooler hours) and taste wines in the afternoon (in cellars that stay at 18°C). You stay in a villa near Montepulciano. The cooking classes happen inside stone farmhouses. Skip the midday walk through the Val d'Orcia fields. Do the wine cellar instead.
Liguria: Genoa and Cinque Terre with Locals
If you prefer the coast, Italia Sweet Italia runs tours of Genoa and Cinque Terre. These are led by locals. The tour includes a pesto-making class in Genoa (pesto is a cold sauce, perfect for hot days) and a boat ride to the Cinque Terre villages. The boat ride offers sea breeze. That is a relief when the trails are baking in the sun. Wear a hat. The trail from Monterosso to Vernazza has little shade.
Learn Italian While You Travel
Several programs combine travel with language lessons. Lingua Lunga promises to take you from zero to conversational in a short time. Vero Viaggio offers small group immersion tours. Renata Venturoli runs a homestay experience in Milan with both in-person and online lessons. Learning even 10 phrases (buongiorno, grazie, quanto costa) will get you better service in restaurants and shops.
One Practical Warning
July is also strike season. Transport strikes in Italy often happen on Fridays or weekends. Check the Italian Ministry of Transport website the day before your train ride. The heatwave makes train delays more common. Pack patience and a battery fan.
Final Numbers
- Palazzo Farnese guided tours: around 12 EUR, must reserve at least 2 days in advance.
- Puglia 8-day tour: approximately 2,200 EUR per person including accommodation and some meals.
- Tuscany wine and cooking week: around 2,500 EUR per person, double occupancy.
- Genoa and Cinque Terre tour: about 1,800 EUR for a 6-day program.
Skip the crowded Amalfi Coast in July. Do Puglia or western Liguria instead. You will find lower prices and fewer selfie sticks.