Naples

When to go

What to see

National Archaeological Museum (Mann) This is the best museum in Naples. The Farnese sculptures and the Pompeii mosaics are world class. Ticket: 22 EUR. Book online 48 hours ahead. Visit duration: 2 to 3 hours. Don’t skip it.

Spaccanapoli and the Historic Center Walk the narrow street that splits the old city. It is free. You need 90 minutes to go from Piazza Gesù Nuovo to Via Duomo. Stop for a coffee at Caffè del Professore (1.20 EUR).

Pompeii Take the Circumvesuviana train from Garibaldi station. Tickets cost 4.20 EUR each way. Standard entry is 18 EUR. A guided tour costs about 50 EUR per person. Plan 3 hours minimum. Go early, arrive before 9:00 AM to beat heat and crowds.

Castel dell’Ovo Free entry. Go for the view over the Gulf of Naples. The walk along Via Partenope is nice. Duration: 45 minutes.

Naples Cathedral (Duomo) Free for the main church. The Treasury Chapel costs 5 EUR. Visit duration: 30 minutes. Skip it if you have seen cathedrals elsewhere.

Capodimonte Museum Tickets cost 12 EUR. The Farnese collection and the park are worth the uphill trip. Bus 168 from Garibaldi gets you there. Plan 2 hours.

Veiled Christ In the Cappella Sansevero. Tickets cost 12 EUR. The line forms at 8:30 AM. Go at 9:00 AM to wait only 20 minutes. This marble statue is stunning. Do not miss it.

Piazza del Plebiscito and the Royal Palace Free square. Palace interior costs 10 EUR and is average. 30 minutes is enough.

3 day itinerary

Day 1: Historic center dive

1. Start at 9:00 AM at the Cappella Sansevero. Book ahead if possible.
2. Walk Spaccanapoli from west to east. Stop at the Gesù Nuovo church and Santa Chiara cloister (6 EUR).
3. Lunch at Antica Pizzeria di Matteo. A margherita costs 5 EUR. Eat standing.
4. Afternoon at the Archaeological Museum. Leave at least 2.5 hours.
5. Evening walk to Piazza del Plebiscito and Castel dell’Ovo for sunset.

Day 2: Pompeii and pizza

1. 8:00 AM train from Garibaldi to Pompeii Scavi. Arrive at 8:45 AM.
2. Explore Pompeii until noon.
3. Lunch at Pizzeria da Franco in modern Pompeii, 8 EUR for a pizza.
4. Return to Naples by 2:00 PM. Rest or visit the Osservatorio Vesuviano if you want (free, 30 minutes).
5. 6:00 PM pizza at Sorbillo on Via dei Tribunali. Expect a 20 minute wait.

Day 3: Underground and sea views

1. 10:00 AM visit Napoli Sotterranea (Underground Naples). 45 minute tour, 12 EUR. Book that morning.
2. Noon walk to Via Toledo and the Galleria Umberto.
3. Lunch at Pizzeria Concettina alle Tre Santi. 6 EUR for a calzone.
4. Afternoon at Capodimonte Museum or the Catacombs of San Gennaro (10 EUR, 1 hour).
5. Dinner in the Chiaia district. Try a seafood frittura at Frittura da Gennaro, 7 EUR.

Where to stay

Getting around

Buy a Unico Campania 3 day ticket for 35 EUR. It covers metro, buses, funiculars, and the Circumvesuviana to Pompeii. The metro runs from 6:00 AM to 11:00 PM. The line 1 is best for tourists. Avoid driving at all costs. Parking is a nightmare and ZTL zones give heavy fines. Taxis start at 12 EUR. Uber is not reliable. Walk wherever possible. Naples is a walking city.

Budget

Budget traveler (60 80 EUR per day) Dorm bed: 25 EUR. Street food pizza or pasta: 6 8 EUR. Coffee: 1.20 EUR. One paid sight per day: 12 EUR. Local transport: 5 EUR.

Mid range (120 170 EUR per day) Double room: 90 EUR. Sit down dinner with wine: 35 EUR. Two sights: 25 EUR. Taxi once: 15 EUR.

Comfortable (200 300 EUR per day) Nice hotel room: 150 EUR. Fine dining: 70 EUR. Private guide: 80 EUR. Taxis and private transfers: 30 EUR.

Mistakes to avoid

Do not buy the Naples City Card. It costs 35 EUR and you never recover the value. Pay per sight instead. Do not eat at any restaurant with waiters outside grabbing your arm. They charge triple. Do not fall for the fake bottle scam outside the Central Station. Someone drops a bottle, you step back, they claim you broke it. Walk away fast. Do not wear flashy jewelry on the metro. Pickpockets work the line 1 at rush hour. Keep your phone in a front pocket. Do not believe the taxi driver who says the Archaeological Museum is closed. It is a trick to take you to a commission only shop. Do not skip the Veiled Christ for a pizza tour. The pizza is everywhere. That statue is unique.