Amalfi Coast

When to go

What to see

Positano, 2 to 3 hours

Ticket to Spiaggia Grande: free. Sunbed + umbrella: 30 EUR for a day. Walk down to the beach, take the photo from the pier, then climb back up. Skip the shops unless you have 300 EUR for a linen dress. Book lunch at Da Vincenzo two days ahead.

Amalfi Town, 1.5 hours

Duomo ticket: 3 EUR. Visit at 8:30 AM before the cruise ship crowds arrive. The cloister (Chiostro del Paradiso) is the real gem. 20 minutes inside max.

Ravello, 2 hours

Villa Rufolo: 7 EUR. Villa Cimbrone: 10 EUR. The gardens are worth every euro. Go at 4 PM when the light hits the terrace. Skip the main square restaurants. Eat at Cumpa' Cosimo instead.

Path of the Gods (Sentiero degli Dei), 3 to 4 hours

Start in Bomerano (bus from Amalfi), end in Nocelle then walk down to Positano. Free. Do it early morning before 9 AM in summer. No shade. Bring 1.5 liters of water per person.

Atrani, 45 minutes

Free. It is the quiet cousin of Amalfi. Five minutes walk from Amalfi's center. Empty beach chairs, cheap aperitivos, real village life.

3-day itinerary

1. Day 1, Positano and the Path of the Gods

• 7:30 AM: Take the early SITA bus from Amalfi to Bomerano (1.50 EUR, 40 min).
• 8:30 AM, 12:00 PM: Hike the Path of the Gods down to Nocelle.
• 12:30 PM: Walk the 1,700 steps into Positano. Grab a quick panino at Collina Bakery.
• 2:00 PM, 4:00 PM: Beach time at Spiaggia Grande. Rent a chair or just sit on the free sand.
• 5:30 PM: Ferry back to Amalfi (8 EUR, 25 min).

1. Day 2, Ravello and Atrani

• 9:00 AM: Bus from Amalfi to Ravello (1.50 EUR, 25 min).
• 9:30 AM, 11:30 AM: Villa Rufolo and Villa Cimbrone.
• 12:00 PM: Lunch at Cumpa' Cosimo. Expect 15 EUR for a pasta dish.
• 1:30 PM: Walk down the steep path to Atrani (20 min).
• 2:30 PM, 5:00 PM: Swim at Atrani beach. Cheap drinks at Bar Sant'Anna.
• 7:00 PM: Dinner in Atrani at La Piazza. Book ahead.

1. Day 3, Amalfi town, lemon groves, and Pompeii half-day

• 8:00 AM: Visit the Duomo before the crowds. 20 minutes.
• 9:00 AM: Take the 50-minute bus to Pompeii (SCAT company, 3.50 EUR).
• 10:30 AM, 1:30 PM: Pompeii ruins. Ticket 18 EUR. Skip the audio guide, use the free app.
• 2:00 PM: Train back to Sorrento (4 EUR), then ferry or bus to Positano (10 EUR).
• 4:30 PM: Rest or swim in Positano. Evening ferry back to Amalfi.

Where to stay

Getting around

SITA buses: 1.50 EUR per ride, buy at tabacchi or on board with cash. The driver gives no change. Buses are packed by 10 AM. Queue at least 20 minutes before the posted time.

Ferries: The best way. From Amalfi to Positano costs 8 EUR (25 min). From Amalfi to Salerno costs 12 EUR (35 min). Buy tickets the evening before from the port tabacchi. Summer ferries run 9 AM to 7 PM.

Private boat transfers: 150, 300 EUR. Worth it for a group of 4. Split the cost and skip the lines.

Car: Do not drive. Just do not. The roads are single lane with blind curves, and parking costs 40 EUR a day.

Budget

Mistakes to avoid

• Booking a room with a view then realizing you have to climb 300 steps to get there. Check the hotel's altitude on Google Maps. Positano is built on a cliff.
• Taking the bus from Positano to Amalfi at 5 PM. You will queue for 45 minutes. Walk to Atrani instead. It is 2 km and flat once you reach the coast road.
• Eating in the main piazza of Amalfi. The food is mediocre and costs double. Walk two streets back.
• Forgetting cash. Many bars and buses do not accept cards. ATMs in Positano run empty on weekends.
• Buying limoncello in tourist shops. Go to a local producer like Antichi Sapori in Amalfi. 12 EUR instead of 25 EUR for the real stuff.
• Visiting in August. Seriously. The ferries are full, the beaches are packed, and the heat ruins the experience.

FAQ