Amalfi Coast

Is 3 days enough for Amalfi Coast?

Yes, but only if you accept you cannot see everything. Skip Pompeii. Skip Capri unless you have a fourth day. This trip focuses on the three main towns plus one hike. The key is using ferries between towns (cheaper than taxis, faster than the SITA bus, and they run on time). July 2026 is peak season. Book accommodation now. Expect crowds from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. on the main streets. Plan around that.

Day 1

Morning: Arrive in Amalfi town

Take the 8:15 a.m. ferry from Salerno (EUR 8, 25 min). Arrive before 9 a.m. Walk to the Duomo of Sant’Andrea. Go inside before the tour groups arrive. Entry is free, but the cloister costs EUR 3. Skip the museum. Spend 40 minutes here. Then wander east along the main street. Buy a lemon granita at Pasticceria Pansa (EUR 3.50). Avoid the cafes with white plastic chairs on the piazza. They charge EUR 6 for the same thing.

Afternoon: Valley of the Mills hike

At 10:30 a.m., walk inland along the Valle dei Mulini path. It starts behind the duomo. The trail is 1.5 km uphill. It takes 45 minutes to reach the old paper mills. The museum there (EUR 4) is good for 20 minutes. Turn back before 12:30 p.m. The sun gets brutal after that. Have lunch at Trattoria da Maria on Via Lorenzo d’Amalfi. Get the spaghetti alle vongole (EUR 14). The house white wine is drinkable (EUR 4 a glass). Do not eat at the waterfront restaurants. They are overpriced and the food sits under heat lamps.

Evening: Sunset at the harbor

Walk down to the marina at 7 p.m. Buy a takeaway pizza from Il Forno (EUR 5.50). Sit on the rocks near the ferry landing. Watch the tour boats leave. The light turns gold on the pastel buildings. At 9 p.m., grab a gelato from Gelateria Italiana (EUR 3 for two scoops). Stay in Amalfi for the night. The last ferry leaves at 8 p.m., so don't plan to go to Positano tonight.

Day 2

Morning: Ferry to Positano

Catch the 9 a.m. ferry to Positano (EUR 12, 25 min). Arrive early. Walk down to the Spiaggia Grande. Do not rent a sunbed (EUR 25 for two chairs). Instead, walk left (facing the sea) to the free public beach at Fornillo. It is 10 minutes by foot. The path is steep with 150 steps. The water is cleaner here. Swim before 10:30 a.m. Crowds arrive by noon.

Afternoon: Shopping and a proper lunch

Wander up the stairs into the town. Visit the Church of Santa Maria Assunta. Its majolica dome is photo-worthy. Inside is free and quiet. Then go to the boutique Ceramiche Assunta on Via dei Mulini. They sell hand-painted plates starting at EUR 25. Skip the cheap Chinese ceramics sold at the market stalls. For lunch, go to Da Vincenzo on Via Pasitea (book a day ahead by phone. Tel. 089 875 082). Get the mixed grilled seafood (EUR 22) and the lemon risotto (EUR 16). The terrace overlooks the sea. Expect EUR 45 a head with water and wine.

Evening: The Path of the Gods shortcut

At 4 p.m., take the SITA bus from Positano (Spaggia Grande stop) up to the village of Nocelle. The fare is EUR 2.20. Buy the ticket at the tabacchi before boarding. The bus ride takes 30 minutes. From Nocelle, walk the flat section of the Path of the Gods toward Bomerano. It is 2 km of easy walking with huge views. You reach a viewpoint over Praiano in 40 minutes. Turn around and go back. At 6 p.m., take the bus down to Amalfi (EUR 2.20). Have dinner at Taverna degli Apostoli. The grilled octopus (EUR 18) is the best in town.

Day 3

Morning: Ravello by SITA bus

From Amalfi, take the SITA bus to Ravello at 8:30 a.m. (EUR 2.20, 25 min). Buy a ticket in advance at the bar near the stop. Arrive before 9 a.m. The town is empty until 10 a.m. Go straight to Villa Cimbrone. The gardens open at 9 a.m. (EUR 10 entry). Walk to the Infinity Terrace. Stand there for five minutes. This is the most famous view on the coast. It is worth the hype. Spend one hour here. Then walk downhill (10 min) to Villa Rufolo. EUR 7 entry. The gardens are smaller but the Wagner statue is there. Skip the guided tour.

Afternoon: Lunch and a slow afternoon

Have lunch at Cumpa’ Cosimo on Via Roma. The restaurant is tiny and has no sign. Look for the red door. Get the scialatielli ai frutti di mare (EUR 15). This is hand-shaped pasta with local seafood. The owner Cosimo sometimes sits with guests. That is not a gimmick. He does it. After lunch, take the 2 p.m. bus back to Amalfi. Collect your luggage from the hotel. Take the 3 p.m. ferry to Salerno (EUR 8, 25 min). If you have time, walk along the Salerno seafront before your train. The pizzeria La Felicita has slices for EUR 4.

Where to stay for this itinerary

Amalfi town (recommended). Best for transport connections. Typical price: EUR 120-180 per night for a double room in July 2026. You can walk to the ferry and bus stops.

Positano (if you can pay more). More romantic but slower to leave. Typical price: EUR 200-350 per night for a double room. The stairs will punish you.

Salerno (budget option). EUR 70-100 per night. You take the ferry each morning (25 min). Salerno is a real city with cheaper food and nightlife.

Practical tips

Buy ferry tickets the day before. Travelmar is the main company. They have an app but it often glitches. The ticket booth at Amalfi opens at 7:30 a.m. and the line is long by 8 a.m. SITA bus tickets cost EUR 2.20 per ride. Buy them at any tabacchi. Validate them in the yellow machine on the bus. If you do not, the fine is EUR 60. The driver does not sell tickets. Do not take a taxi between towns. The fare from Amalfi to Positano is EUR 60. The ferry is EUR 12. The bus is EUR 2.20. Bring a refillable water bottle. Public fountains are everywhere and the water is safe. Wear shoes with grip. There are about 1,500 steps total if you walk the three towns. Do not bring a rolling suitcase. Backpack only, or pay a porter (EUR 10 per bag).

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