Amalfi Coast

Which beaches are actually worth visiting?

Skip the tourist poster beaches. Spiaggia Grande in Positano is jammed by 10am and charges 25 35 EUR for a pair of deck chairs. You are paying for the view of pastel houses, not the sand. The sand is coarse and the water gets murky by noon. Instead, walk 15 minutes east to Fornillo Beach. It is quieter, has a free section at the far end, and the same view for less than half the price (18 22 EUR at La Tonnarella lido).

Duoglio Beach near Amalfi is my top pick. It is wide, has coarse golden sand, and the water stays clear until late afternoon. You get there by stairs (about 400 steps down from the highway, takes 12 minutes) or by boat taxi from Amalfi port for 5 EUR each way. The free part stretches 200 meters. The paid lido (Bagni Duoglio) costs 25 EUR for two chairs plus umbrella in July 2026. The bar sells a decent lemon granita for 4 EUR.

Marina di Praia is a small cove with a pebble beach and a working fishing harbor. It feels authentic. The lido there charges 20 EUR for two loungers. The free spot is at the far left, about 40 square meters, under a cliff overhang. It gets shade by 3pm. Good if you burn easily.

Canneto (near Maiori) is one of the few free beaches with fine sand. No lido, just public access. Bring everything. There is a small kiosk selling water and chips. The water gets choppy in the afternoon. Arrive before 9am to claim a towel spot.

Is it free? Paid lidos vs free beaches explained.

About 60% of accessible coastline in the Amalfi Coast belongs to state concessions. Lidos rent that part. The remaining 40% is public and free. The free sections are usually at the edges of each bay, marked by a lack of umbrellas and a concrete walkway.

Lido prices in summer 2026:

• Two deck chairs + umbrella: 20 35 EUR per day.
• Single sunbed: 12 18 EUR.
• Towel rental: 3 5 EUR (carry your own).
• Locker: 5 EUR.

Free beaches cost nothing but offer no services. No chairs, no shade, no lifeguard. You sit on sand or rock. Bring a thin mat because the pebbles hurt. Also bring water. The nearest tap is often a 10 minute walk uphill.

Comparison table

How do I reach the beaches without a car?

Do not drive. Parking costs 30 50 EUR per day in summer and spots vanish by 9am. The SITA buses run every 30 minutes along the SS163 and cost 1.50 2.50 EUR per ride. Buy tickets at tabacchi shops before boarding. No ticket, 50 EUR fine. I saw it happen three times last July.

Ferries are faster and more scenic. The 2026 summer schedule (June to September) runs daily from 9am to 6pm. Key routes and durations:

• Amalfi to Positano: 25 minutes, 9 EUR.
• Amalfi to Duoglio beach: 5 minutes, 5 EUR.
• Salerno to Amalfi: 35 minutes, 8 EUR.
• Capri to Positano: 50 minutes, 18 EUR.

Ferries dock at each beach. For Duoglio and Marina di Praia, the boat drops you right at the sand. No extra walk. Check the last departure. Miss it and you face a 40 minute uphill walk on a narrow road with no sidewalk.

When do beaches get crowded?

July and August are full. Peak hours are 10:30am to 3:30pm. After 4pm, families pack up and the crowd halves. September is better. Water stays warm (23 25°C) until mid October.

For a quiet morning, arrive at 8am. Most ferries start at 9am. Tourists flood in from 10am. On Saturdays, the crowd is worst. Wednesdays are calmest.

From 2025, local authorities added a cap on access to Duoglio and Fornillo. Check the Comune di Amalfi Facebook page before going. If the beach reaches 80% capacity, they close entry. This happened on August 15 last year. People were turned away.

What should I bring?

Water shoes. Non negotiable. The pebbles and rock slabs hurt barefoot. Some beaches have sea urchins near the rocks. A rash guard helps against sun and jellies. Mediterranean jellyfish appear in July and August. They are not deadly but sting like nettles.

Bring a swim shirt or long sleeve UV top. The sun reflects off white rocks and burns fast. I had a tourist crying in 2024 because she fell asleep for 30 minutes and got second degree sunburn on her back. Lido sunblock costs 15 EUR for a small bottle. Carry your own.

A snorkel set is worth it. The water clarity at Duoglio and Canneto reaches 15 meters on calm days. You will see bream, groupers, and sometimes octopus.

Food and drink: bar prices at lidos are high. A panino costs 12 EUR. A beer is 6 EUR. Pack a sandwich and a 1.5L water bottle. Free beaches have no kiosks. You will walk 15 minutes uphill to find a shop.

Which beaches work for families with kids?

Maiori beach is the safest. It is flat, has fine sand, and a gentle slope into the water. The public part is 500 meters long. There is a playground next to the promenade. Lifeguards stay until 7pm. Parking is hell though. Use the train from Salerno (line Napoli Salerno, stop at Maiori station, then 10 minute walk).

Cave di Marmo near Amalfi is a small pebble cove with shallow water. It is popular with locals who bring toddlers. No lido, just free rocks. Get there by bus from Amalfi center, alight at stop "Cave", then 3 minute downhill path.

Skip Spiaggia Grande with kids. Too crowded. Kids get lost in the crush. I saw a father panicking for 20 minutes last August. They found his daughter at the police station. Not worth it.

FAQs

Is it safe to swim at Amalfi Coast beaches?

Yes, most beaches have lifeguards in summer. But pay attention to boat traffic. Some coves are used by small ferries. Stay inside the buoy lines. Rip currents are rare but occur after storms.

Can I rent umbrellas and chairs for just a few hours?

Yes. Most lidos offer half day rates from 1pm to 6pm for about 15 EUR for a pair of chairs. Cash only at many places. ATMs are scarce near beaches.

Which beach has the clearest water?

Duoglio and Marina di Praia win. Visibility reaches 20 meters on calm days. Avoid Spiaggia Grande. Boat wakes stir up sediment.

Are there nude beaches on the Amalfi Coast?

Not officially. A few small rocky inlets near Conca dei Marini have occasional nude bathers, but it is not accepted. Stick to swimwear.

Do I need cash or card at beach bars and lidos?

Cash is preferred. About 30% of kiosks accept cards in 2026 but their terminals often fail. Small change helps. I carry 50 EUR in 5 and 10 notes.