Sardinia

When to go

My verdict: Go in the second half of May or the first half of September. You get great swimming weather, almost no queues, and prices that don't hurt.

What to see

La Maddalena Archipelago (half day to full day)

A boat trip around these granite islands is the single best thing you can do in Sardinia. Book a 4-hour tour (EUR 45-60 per person) from Palau. You stop at three beaches including the famous Spiaggia Rosa. The pink sand beach is protected: you cannot land, but you swim beside it. Skip the overpriced private taxis from the port and join a group boat.

Cala Goloritzé (1.5 hours + 1 hour hike down)

A pebble beach with electric blue water. Park at the Su Porteddu car park (EUR 5 cash) and walk 45 minutes downhill. The path is rocky. No facilities once you descend. Bring water and a snack. Entry is free but there is a ranger who sometimes limits numbers in August. Go early before 9:30 AM.

Su Nuraxi, Barumini (1.5 hours)

The only UNESCO World Heritage nuraghe complex. EUR 13 for the guided tour, which is mandatory. Tours run every 30 minutes. Skip the audio guide: the guides are good. Book online in high season to avoid waiting an hour in the sun.

Costa Smeralda (drive through, skip the beaches)

Porto Cervo is a playground for the super-rich. Walk the marina for 20 minutes, watch the yachts, then leave. The public beaches here are tiny and packed. Drive 15 minutes north to Capriccioli or 20 minutes south to Liscia Ruja for better sand and more space.

Grotta di Nettuno (2 hours)

A sea cave near Alghero. You can reach it by stairs of 654 steps or by boat from Alghero port (EUR 20 round trip). The steps close in bad weather. Skip the cave if you are claustrophobic. Arrive by 10 AM to avoid the tour bus crowd.

Orgosolo (half day)

A mountain village famous for its murals painted by local anarchists and artists. Free to walk around. Park outside the old town (it is narrow). Have lunch at Su Gologone restaurant, a 10-minute drive away, for authentic suckling pig.

3-day itinerary

Day 1: North Sardinia

• 8:30 AM Pick up rental car at Olbia Airport or port. Drive 40 minutes to Palau.
• 9:30 AM Board a group boat tour of La Maddalena Archipelago. Bring sunscreen, a towel, and a packed lunch.
• 1:00 PM Swimming stop at Spargi beach. Then Cala Corsara and a dip near Spiaggia Rosa.
• 2:30 PM Return to Palau. Quick panino at Bar Giuly for EUR 7.
• 3:30 PM Drive 20 minutes to Capriccioli beach. Relax until 6 PM.
• 7:00 PM Dinner at Ristorante La Sciumara in Baja Sardinia: seafood spaghetti EUR 18.

Day 2: East Coast and Mountains

• 7:30 AM Leave hotel. Drive 1.5 hours to Cala Goloritzé trailhead. Hike down.
• 9:00 AM Swim at Cala Goloritzé. Leave by 10:30 AM before the crowds.
• 11:30 AM Drive 40 minutes to Orgosolo. Walk the murals for an hour.
• 1:00 PM Lunch at Su Gologone. Reservations required. EUR 40 per person for the fixed menu.
• 3:00 PM Drive 45 minutes to Su Nuraxi in Barumini. Join the 4 PM tour.
• 5:30 PM Drive 1 hour to Cagliari for the night. Check into Hotel Palazzo Doglio (EUR 180).
• 8:00 PM Aperitivo at Caffè dell'Elfo on the Marina. EUR 6 for a glass of Vermentino.

Day 3: Cagliari and South Coast

• 9:00 AM Walk the Castello district. Free. Visit the Bastione Saint Remy viewpoint.
• 10:30 AM Drive 30 minutes to Chia beach. Park at the free lot before the paid one.
• 1:00 PM Lunch at Ristorante Sa Colonia: tuna tartare and a beer for EUR 25.
• 2:30 PM Visit Nora archaeological site (EUR 8). Allow 1 hour.
• 4:00 PM Drive 45 minutes to Cagliari airport or port. Return car.

Where to stay

My pick: Stay in Alghero for 3 nights. You have caves, good restaurants, and a medieval center. Day trips to Bosa and the coral coast are easy.

Getting around

Rental car is essential. Rent from Hertz or Locauto. Book 3 months ahead for summer. Prices start at EUR 45 per day in June and jump to EUR 90 in August. Avoid renting at the Olbia airport kiosk: walk 200 meters to the off-airport office to save 20%.

Ferries from mainland Italy: Moby and Tirrenia run from Civitavecchia, Genoa, Livorno, and Naples. A one-way car+passenger from Civitavecchia to Olbia in June costs EUR 120-180. Book 5 weeks ahead. The overnight ferry saves a night of accommodation.

Buses connect main towns but are slow. From Cagliari to Alghero takes 4 hours by bus, 2.5 hours by car. Trains are scenic but mostly useless for beaches. Do not rely on public transport to reach the coast.

Taxis are expensive. A 20 km ride costs EUR 40-50. Use app-based services like UberX only in Cagliari. Elsewhere, call one by phone.

Budget

Budget travelers: skip restaurants for lunch. Buy cheese, bread, and olives at a supermercato (Conad or PAM). A good local bottle of wine costs EUR 7.

Mistakes to avoid

Driving on beach sand. It is not a road. Dozens of tourists get stuck each summer. Tow truck costs EUR 150. Park on asphalt.

Paying for bottled water at restaurants. Ask for acqua del rubinetto (tap water). Sardinia has excellent aqueducts. Some places serve it for free, others charge EUR 0.50 for a carafe.

Visiting beaches in the middle of the day. July sun is punishing from 1 PM to 4 PM. Go at 8 AM or 5 PM. Bring an umbrella.

Buying ferry tickets from third party websites. The official site of Moby or Tirrenia is cheaper. Resellers add 15-30%. Always check the official website first.

Thinking you can see the whole island in a week. Sardinia is the size of Sicily but with slower roads. Pick a region: north or south. Do not try to drive from Cagliari to La Maddalena in one day.

Not bringing cash. Small bars, fruit stands, and parking attendants often do not accept cards. Have at least EUR 50 in small bills.

Arriving in August without dining reservations. Restaurants in coastal towns are packed. Book lunch by 10 AM or eat a late dinner at 9:30 PM.

FAQ