Florence

What are the local dishes I absolutely must try?

You cannot leave Florence without eating bistecca alla fiorentina. It is a thick T-bone steak (at least 1 kg, so share it) from Chianina cattle, grilled over hot coals, served rare. A good one costs 38-50 EUR per kg in a trattoria. A 1.2 kg steak for two, with contorni (side dishes) and water, runs about 70-90 EUR total.

Other non negotiables: ribollita (thick bread and vegetable soup, winter staple), pappa al pomodoro (tomato and bread soup, summer favorite), crostini di fegato (chicken liver pate on toast), and lampredotto (cow's fourth stomach, boiled and served in a roll with salsa verde, the true street food of Florence).

Pasta is not the main event here, but pici cacio e pepe (thick handmade spaghetti with pecorino and pepper) is excellent. Skip the spaghetti carbonara or amatriciana, those are Roman dishes and often badly made in Florence.

Which restaurants and trattorias are actually worth the price?

One warning: avoid any restaurant that has a person standing outside with a menu and a photo board. These are tourist traps. Real trattorias do not need to lure you in.

What wine should I order in Florence?

Order Chianti Classico. It comes from the hills around Florence. A good bottle in a restaurant costs 18-28 EUR. Look for the black rooster (Gallo Nero) label on the neck. A 2019 or 2020 Riserva is best. If you want something bolder, a Brunello di Montalcino (2017 or 2018 vintage) at 40-60 EUR is a splurge that pays off.

Do not order a glass of 'house wine' unless you see the bottle. Many places pour cheap bulk wine from a carton. Ask for 'vino della casa sfuso' and ask which local vineyard they use. A good house wine should cost 4-6 EUR per glass.

For whites, try Vernaccia di San Gimignano (crisp, citrusy) or a Trebbiano from the local hills. Both are 15-20 EUR a bottle.

Dessert wine: vin santo. It is a sweet, nutty passito wine. Dip your cantucci (hard almond cookies) into it. A small glass is 5-7 EUR at a restaurant.

Which food and wine markets are the real deal?

Mercato Centrale (ground floor) is the real market. Open Monday to Saturday 7:00 to 14:00. Buy fresh produce, cheese, cured meats, and olive oil from the small stalls. The upstairs food hall (open 10:00 to 22:00 daily) is more touristy but convenient. Avoid the pre packaged 'Florence olive oil' in gift bottles. They are often mixed with cheaper oils. Instead, buy from the farmer at the ground floor: 12-15 EUR per liter.

The Sant'Ambrogio Market (Piazza Ghiberti) is smaller and less crowded. Go on a Saturday morning. The panino with lampredotto from the food truck outside (Nerbone's stall inside Mercato Centrale also sells lampredotto for 5 EUR) is a perfect breakfast.

What tourist traps should I avoid?

Do not buy a 'Florentine steak' from a restaurant near the Duomo. They serve frozen imported beef and charge 60 EUR per kg. Real Florentine steak costs 38-50 EUR per kg and is sold only by weight. If the menu says 'bistecca alla fiorentina 25 EUR', it is a lie.

Avoid the gelato shops with fluffy, brightly colored mounds piled high. That is artificial gelato with air and dye. Real gelato is kept in covered metal tins, is naturally colored, and costs 2.50-3.50 EUR for a medium cone. Look for the sign 'Gelato Artigianale' and check if they use fresh fruit. My favorite is Gelateria dei Neri (Via dei Neri 20r).

Do not buy a 'chianti in a straw covered bottle' from a souvenir shop. That is cheap vinegar for tourists. Real Chianti Classico has a black rooster seal and costs at least 8 EUR in a wine shop.

Finally, skip the 'cooking class' that costs 150 EUR per person for a 3 hour session. Many are assembly line experiences. Instead, go to a small place like 'Cucina con Amore' (Via dei Macci 46r) which charges 65 EUR for a 4 hour class with market visit. Book 3 days ahead.

FAQ

What is the difference between Chianti and Chianti Classico?

Chianti Classico is the original, stricter production zone, with the black rooster label. Regular Chianti is often lighter and cheaper. Always pick Classico.

Is it rude to tip in Florence?

No, but it is not expected. A service charge (coperto) is already on the bill, usually 2-3 EUR per person. Leave 1-2 EUR on the table if you liked the service.

What time do Florentines eat dinner?

Dinner is 20:00 to 21:30. Restaurants open at 19:30 or 20:00. Lunch is 12:30 to 14:30. Many kitchens close between 15:00 and 19:00.

Can I drink tap water in restaurants?

Do not ask for tap water. They will bring bottled still (acqua naturale) or sparkling (frizzante). A 1 liter bottle costs 2-3 EUR. It is normal.

What dessert should I get instead of tiramisu?

Cantucci with vin santo (hard cookies dipped in sweet wine). Or schiacciata alla fiorentina (a light orange scented sponge cake, usually sold at bakeries like Pasticceria Nencioni).