Cinque Terre

What are the local dishes I must try?

Pesto is king here, but not the supermarket jar kind. Real pesto Genovese from Cinque Terre uses local basil, pine nuts from the hills, and a sharp pecorino. Trofie al pesto is the classic hand rolled pasta. It costs 12 16 EUR at a solid place. Avoid anything claiming "fresh pesto" that looks bright green and emulsified. That is factory made.

Anchovies are the other star. Monterosso has the best, packed in salt or oil. Order acciughe marinate (marinated in lemon and parsley) as a starter. A plate costs 8 10 EUR. The fried anchovies (acciughe fritte) at Il Moretto in Vernazza cost 10 EUR and are the best I have eaten on the coast. Skip the frozen ones served with a heavy batter at place facing the harbor.

Seafood is abundant but expensive. The mixed fried seafood (fritto misto) runs 18 25 EUR. It is often frozen prawns and squid. Ask if it is local. If they hesitate, order the anchovies instead. Farinata (a thin chickpea pancake) is a cheap snack at 3 4 EUR for a slice. Get it at Pizzeria Fratelli Basso in Manarola.

Which wines should I order?

The white wine is Cinque Terre DOC. It is a blend of Bosco, Albarola, and Vermentino grapes. It tastes of white flowers and sea salt. A glass costs 5 7 EUR in a restaurant. A bottle costs 18 30 EUR. The best bottles come from small producers like Possa, Bisson, or Walter De Battè. Do not pay more than 35 EUR for a bottle in a shop unless it is Sciacchetrà.

Sciacchetrà is the sweet dessert wine made from dried grapes. It is amber, rich, and pairs with blue cheese or biscotti. Real Sciacchetrà has a DOC denomination label on the neck. The cheap stuff is just syrup. A 0.375 L bottle from a good cantina costs 20 35 EUR. A taste is a 7 10 EUR pour.

Red wine is not local. The hills are too steep. Drink the white. If you want red, ask for a Rossese di Dolceacqua from Liguria. It is light and fruity. A glass costs 6 9 EUR.

Where are the best places to eat?

What is the biggest tourist trap to avoid?

Do not eat at any restaurant on the main drag in Monterosso near the train station. They have laminated menus in eight languages and a person waving menus. The food is reheated and the prices are 30% higher than a trattoria one street inland. A plate of trofie costs 18 EUR there versus 13 EUR at a proper place. The view is of traffic, not the sea.

Another trap is the seafood platter served on a tiered stand. It looks Instagrammable. The crab shell is fake. The prawns are shrimp. It costs 45 EUR for two and you will still be hungry. Order a simple grilled fish instead. A whole branzino costs 25 30 EUR and is real.

Do not buy pesto from a shop that has a display of colorful pasta bags and a salesperson offering samples. That pesto is made in a factory and shipped. Buy from a local cooperative or a farmer at the market in Levanto (Saturday morning). A 200g jar costs 8 10 EUR there versus 15 EUR in a tourist shop.

Is it worth doing a food tour or cooking class?

Yes but only one. The cooking class at Trattoria Dal Billy in Manarola costs 95 EUR per person. It lasts three hours. You make trofie by hand, pesto in a mortar, and tiramisù. You eat what you make. The class size is eight people maximum. Book two months ahead for summer 2026. Avoid the mass market class that runs groups of 20 and uses a food processor. That is a waste of 120 EUR.

A warning about the queues in 2026

July and August are brutal. Restaurants start serving lunch at 12 00. Show up at 11 45 to get a table without a wait. The queue for Nessun Dorma at 18 00 is 40 minutes long. Go at 16 30 for a late afternoon snack. No queue then. All restaurants close between 14 00 and 19 00 except for a few bars serving panini. Plan your eating times or you will eat a sad sandwich from a vending machine.

What is the drink to order besides wine?

The local bitter is Amaro di Cinque Terre. It is made with herbs from the hills. Served on ice with a slice of lemon. A shot costs 4 6 EUR. It tastes like a less sweet Fernet. Good for digestion after a heavy seafood meal. Do not order limoncello here. That is a Sorrento product. Here they serve limonino, which is milder and more floral. A small bottle costs 8 10 EUR in a shop.