Sicily

Is 5 days enough for Sicily?

Honestly, no. Sicily is big and the roads are slow. But if you want a solid sampler, this plan works. You will see three UNESCO sites, eat well, and drive about 12 hours total. It is not a relaxing holiday. It is a whirlwind. If you prefer slow travel, pick two cities and stay put.

Day 1

Morning: Arrive in Palermo (PMO airport). Take the Prestia e Comandé bus into town. It costs 6 EUR and runs every 30 minutes. The ride takes 50 minutes. Do not take a taxi. They cost 40-50 EUR and are no faster.

Afternoon: Palermo city center on foot. Start at the Quattro Canti square, then walk to the Palazzo dei Normanni and the Cappella Palatina. Book the Cappella Palatina ticket online at least 2 days ahead. It costs 17 EUR. The mosaics are the best you will see. Skip the rest of the palace unless you have 2 extra hours.

Evening: Street food in Ballarò market. Walk down Via Maqueda into Ballarò. Eat panelle (chickpea fritters, 1.50 EUR) and arancina (rice ball, 3 EUR). Avoid the stalls with English menus and no prices. Pay in cash. The market is chaotic but safe. By 9pm it quiets down.

Total walking today: 8 km.

Day 2

Morning: Palermo to Agrigento (2 hours drive). Pick up a rental car from the city center. Drive south on the SS121. The road is narrow and slow in places. Do not try this by train. It takes 4 hours with a change. Arrive at the Valley of the Temples by 8:30am. Park at the lower entrance (Porta V). Ticket costs 12 EUR. See the Temple of Concordia first. It is the best preserved. The entire walk takes 2 hours. By 10:30am it is already 35C. Leave by 11am.

Afternoon: Scala dei Turchi. Drive 20 minutes to this white cliff. It is free. Swim at the rocky beach below. The water is clear. Bring water shoes. Stay until 2pm. Then drive 1.5 hours east to Caltanissetta or Enna for a lunch stop. Skip the town of Agrigento itself. It is ugly and has nothing for tourists.

Evening: Drive to Taormina (2.5 hours more). Check into your hotel near Taormina. Eat dinner in Giardini Naxos, the beach town below Taormina. The food is cheaper and the tables are on the sand.

Total driving today: 6 hours.

Day 3

Morning: Taormina and the Greek Theatre. Take the cable car from Giardini Naxos up to Taormina. It costs 3 EUR each way and runs every 15 minutes. Visit the Teatro Antico at 8am (10 EUR). The view of Etna from the top seats is worth the jet lag. By 10am it is a zoo with tour groups. Leave by 10:30am. Walk down Corso Umberto. Buy nothing on this street. Everything is overpriced by 50%. Go one street east, Via Roma, for better prices.

Afternoon: Isola Bella beach. Walk down the stairs (200 steps) to this pebble beach. It is small and gets crowded. Rent one sunbed for 15 EUR. Swim until 2pm. Then take the cable car back and drive 1 hour to Catania.

Evening: Catania fish market and a dinner of horse meat. The fish market (Pescheria) is open until 8pm. Walk through and buy nothing from the stalls with plastic trays. Instead eat a horse meat sandwich at a street stall. It costs 4 EUR. Try it. It tastes like lean beef. Then walk to Piazza del Duomo to see the elephant statue. That takes 10 minutes. Then go to bed. Catania is rough at night. Stick to the main streets.

Total walking today: 6 km.

Day 4

Morning: Mount Etna excursion. Book a half-day 4x4 tour online at least 4 days before. Do not drive up yourself. The rental insurance does not cover volcanic ash damage. The tours cost 65-80 EUR per person and include a guide and helmet. They pick you up in Catania at 7am. The tour goes to 2900m (the Silvestri craters). You walk on the rim for 45 minutes. The ground is warm underfoot. Wear closed shoes and a jacket. It is 15C at that altitude even in July.

Afternoon: Return to Catania by 1pm. Drive 30 minutes south to Syracuse (Siracusa). Visit the Neapolis Archaeological Park (10 EUR). The Ear of Dionysius cave is the best part. The Greek theatre is big but mostly original. Spend 1.5 hours here. Then walk to Ortigia island. It is a 15 minute walk. Have a granita with brioche (4 EUR) at a bar on Piazza Archimede.

Evening: Dinner in Ortigia. Eat at a trattoria on a side street off the main square. Look for a place with handwritten menus in Italian and no pictures. Pay 12-15 EUR for a first course. The seafood pasta is excellent. Walk along the seafront after dinner. The sunset light on the white buildings is beautiful.

Total walking today: 8 km.

Day 5

Morning: Syracuse to Noto (40 minutes drive). Leave early. Arrive at Noto by 8:30am. This town has the best Baroque architecture in Sicily. Walk down Corso Vittorio Emanuele. Stop at the Cathedral and Palazzo Ducezio. Buy almond cookies from a pasticceria (5 EUR for 200g). The town is tiny. You finish in 2 hours. Leave by 11am.

Afternoon: Drive back to Catania airport (1 hour). Drop the rental car. If your flight is after 4pm, make a pit stop at the Roman villa of Casale near Piazza Armerina. It is 1 hour from Catania. The floor mosaics are the best in the world. But you must book a time slot online. Cost 10 EUR. The visit takes 90 minutes. Then continue to the airport.

Evening: Depart from Catania (CTA). Arrive at the airport 2 hours before your flight. The security line moves fast.

Where to stay for this itinerary

Palermo (Night 1): Choose a room in the Kalsa district. Near the sea and the markets. Expect 80-120 EUR per night in July.

Taormina area (Night 2 and 3): Stay in Giardini Naxos. It is cheaper and has beaches. A double room is 100-150 EUR per night. Parking is free.

Syracuse (Night 4): Rent an apartment in Ortigia. Cramped but magical. Prices run 90-130 EUR per night.

Practical tips

• Rental car: Book with full insurance (zero excess) from a major company. Sicily has narrow streets and bad drivers. Not having insurance is a 500 EUR mistake.
• Tickets to book ahead: Palazzo dei Normanni (Palermo), Valley of the Temples (skip the line), Greek Theatre of Taormina, and the Mount Etna 4x4 tour. Book everything at least 48 hours before.
• Mistakes to avoid: Do not visit the Catania fish market after 8am. It smells and is picked over. Do not eat at a restaurant with a guy waving menus outside. Do not drive into the ZTL (limited traffic zone) in any historic city. The fine is 100 EUR and arrives by mail a year later.
• What to pack: A sun umbrella, closed shoes for Etna, a refillable water bottle, and a swimsuit. No high heels. The streets are cobblestone and broken.

FAQ

• Is Sicily safe for solo travelers? Yes, but take normal precautions. Keep phones in your pocket. Bag snatching happens on buses in Palermo and Catania. Do not walk alone after midnight in the less bright parts of Catania.
• Do I need to speak Italian? Not in tourist spots. In villages, no one under 40 speaks English. Learn these: "buongiorno", "grazie", "quanto costa?" (how much).
• Can I visit the Valley of the Temples without a car? Yes, by train from Palermo to Agrigento (19 EUR, 2 hours). But then add a taxi from the station to the temples (15 EUR). It is doable but slower.
• What if it rains? In July, rain is almost impossible. If it does, skip beaches and do the Catania underground tour (10 EUR, 1 hour).
• How much cash do I need? Carry 50-100 EUR in small bills. Many street stalls and small shops do not take cards. Large restaurants and museums do.