Lake Como

Which lake town should you base yourself in?

Bellagio is the most famous and the most crowded. I would pick Varenna instead. It has the same lakefront charm, fewer tour groups, and direct ferries to Menaggio and Bellagio. Varenna’s ferry pier is 200 meters from the train station. Bellagio’s pier is a 15 minute uphill walk from the station. Menaggio is quieter still but limited for restaurants in low season.

Do not stay in Como city unless you want nightlife. The lakefront there feels like a busy provincial town, not the alpine escape you came for.

Is a boat tour worth the price?

Yes, if you go private. A shared public ferry ride from Bellagio to Varenna costs EUR 4.60 and takes 15 minutes. The view is nice but you are packed with 200 other people. A private boat with a skipper for 3 hours costs around EUR 250 to 400 depending on the boat size and season. You can stop at Villa Balbianello’s dock (entrance EUR 12, 45 minute visit) and swim in the middle of the lake. That is the real Lake Como experience.

Rent a small motorboat without license if you have experience. A 4 hour rental of a 20 HP boat costs EUR 180 to 240. No license needed for boats under 40 HP in Italy. Do not rent in Como city. Rent from the smaller harbors in Tremezzo or Lenno. They are less busy and cheaper.

Boat options comparison:

Warning: Many private boat operators near the ferry piers in Bellagio offer "water taxis" at EUR 60 for a 10 minute crossing. That is a ripoff. Only use licensed tour operators booked in advance.

Which villas and gardens are worth the entrance fee?

Villa Carlotta in Tremezzo is the best garden. EUR 15 entry. The azaleas and rhododendrons bloom in April through May. In July 2026 you will see the giant sequoias and the herb garden. Allow 90 minutes. The villa interior is mostly empty. Skip it and stay outside.

Villa del Balbianello in Lenno is the most photogenic. You will recognize it from Star Wars and James Bond films. EUR 12 for the park only. The guided tour of the villa interior costs EUR 22 total and adds 30 minutes. The guided tour is optional. I prefer the park alone. The terrace view over the lake is worth the uphill 10 minute walk from the dock. The boat is the only way to arrive unless you walk 2 km uphill from Lenno. Do that walk only if you are fit.

Villa Monastero in Varenna costs EUR 8. It is a former convent with a botanical garden stretching 500 meters along the lake. Less grand than Carlotta but almost no queues. Allow 45 minutes.

Skip Villa Melzi in Bellagio. EUR 10 for a small garden that is mostly lawn. The only reason to go is the bamboo grove, which you can see for free from the lakeside path.

Should you ride the Funicular to Brunate?

Skip it. The queue at Como station averages 45 minutes in July 2026. The ride is 7 minutes and costs EUR 3 one way. At the top you get a wide view of the lake and the Alps. The same view is better from the Belvedere viewpoint in Varenna (free, 10 minute walk from the train station). Brunate village itself is residential. There is one cafe and a church. Not worth 2 hours of your day.

If you insist on a mountain view, take the tiny cable car from Argegno to Pigra (EUR 7 round trip, 6 minute ride, no queues). The village of Pigra has a bar with a terrace that looks over the whole lake. One pointed view but you have it to yourself.

Is the Greenway del Lago walk worth doing?

Yes, but only the Colonno to Cadenabbia section. That is 10 km, mostly flat, taking 3 to 3.5 hours. You walk along the old Roman road with the lake on one side and villas on the other. The path is paved and stroller friendly. Start at Colonno (free parking) and end in Cadenabbia for a ferry back. Do not start in Como city. The first 4 km from Como are on a busy road with no lake view.

Can you visit Lake Como on a day trip from Milan?

You can, but I would not. The train from Milan Centrale to Varenna takes about 1 hour 10 minutes and costs EUR 9.60. The last train back is around 21:30. You get 5 to 6 hours of daylight in summer. You will see one town and queue for everything. If you must do it, go to Varenna only. Arrive before 09:30. Visit Villa Monastero, walk to the Fiumelatte stream (free, 20 minutes), eat lunch, and take the 15 minute ferry to Bellagio for a quick look. Leave Bellagio by 16:00 to avoid the crowd for the return ferry.

How do you avoid the worst crowds in 2026?

July and August are horrible in Bellagio and Como town. Queues for the ferry ticket booth can reach 40 minutes at 11:00. The 12:15 ferry from Bellagio to Varenna is always packed. Take the 14:00 ferry instead. It is half full.

Buy ferry tickets on the Navigazione Laghi app. The QR code works at all gates. No paper ticket queue. The app works poorly on Italian mobile data. Download it while on WiFi before you leave home.

Do not visit on a Saturday in July. Cruise ship excursions from Milan arrive on Saturdays. The pier in Bellagio has 300 people waiting before 10:00.

Visit on a Tuesday or Wednesday. Those are the quietest days. The gardens at Villa Carlotta open at 09:30. Be there at 09:25. You will have the rhododendrons to yourself until 10:30.

What should you do in bad weather?

Lake Como in rain is not great. The villas are mostly outdoor. The only indoor option is the Museo della Seta in Como (silk museum). EUR 10, 60 minutes. It is interesting if you like textiles. Otherwise, accept the rain and walk the covered arcades of Como city. Or take the 5 minute ferry to Laglio and sit in the cafe near George Clooney’s villa. You will not see him. But the cafe has good hot chocolate.

One final practical warning

Do not buy a Lake Como Card. It costs EUR 35 for 24 hours and includes a ferry pass plus discounts. The ferry pass alone costs EUR 15.50. The discounts are EUR 1 off Villa Carlotta and similar small cuts. You need to take 5 ferry rides and visit 3 villas for it to break even. Most people take 3 ferry rides max. Just buy individual tickets. Save your euros for gelato.