Lake Como

When to go

What to see

Villa del Balbianello (Lenno), 45 minute visit. Entry 14 EUR. Book ahead in summer. The garden views are the best on the lake. Skip if you cannot do stairs.

Villa Carlotta (Tremezzo), 1 hour. Entry 12 EUR. The botanical garden is spectacular in April and May when the rhododendrons bloom. In August it is just green.

Bellagio, 2 hours minimum. Free to wander. The ferry dock area is a human traffic jam by 11am. Go early or late. The walk up to the Punta Spartivento viewpoint is worth the sweat.

Varenna, 1.5 hours. Free. More relaxed than Bellagio. Walk the path to the Castle of Vezio (entry 5 EUR) for the best lake panorama. Do not skip this.

Como city, Half day. The old town and Piazza Cavour are fine. The funicular to Brunate (return 5.50 EUR) gives a bird's eye view. Skip the Duomo unless you have seen no other Italian churches.

Menaggio, 1 hour. Free. A real town with a lakeside promenade and good bars. No major sights but a pleasant place to breathe.

Short on time? Only do Varenna and the Bellagio viewpoint. Skip Como city and Villa Carlotta.

3 day itinerary

Day 1: Como city and the western shore

9:00am arrive in Como by train from Milan (1 hour, 13 EUR). Drop bags at hotel. 10:00am ride the funicular up to Brunate. Stay 30 minutes. 11:30am walk the old town. 1:00pm lunch at a trattoria away from Piazza Cavour (adds 5 EUR to pasta prices). 2:30pm take the ferry to Lenno (30 min, 7 EUR). Visit Villa del Balbianello. 5:00pm ferry to Tremezzo. Quick walk past Villa Carlotta garden. 6:30pm dinner in Tremezzo.

Day 2: Bellagio and Varenna

8:30am ferry from Tremezzo to Bellagio (15 min, 4.80 EUR). Walk the waterfront before the crowds. 9:30am climb to Punta Spartivento. 10:30am wander the shops. 11:00am queue for the Varenna ferry (get there early for a spot on the railing). 11:30am arrive Varenna. The ferry line is already 20 minutes. 12:00pm lunch in Varenna. 1:30pm walk to Vezio Castle. 3:00pm swim at the Lido di Varenna (8 EUR entry, lake water, cold). 5:00pm ferry back to base.

Day 3: Menaggio and the northern lake

9:00am ferry to Menaggio (20 min from Varenna, 4.80 EUR). Walk the promenade. 10:30am rent a kayak from the beach (20 EUR per hour). Paddle to the opposite shore. 12:30pm lunch in Menaggio. 2:00pm bus to Gravedona (30 min, 3 EUR). Less touristy, nice old church. 4:00pm ferry back. 6:00pm depart from Como or Varenna train station. The last direct train to Milan is around 8pm.

Where to stay

Getting around

Ferries are the only smart way. Single ticket between main towns is 4.80 to 7 EUR. A day pass costs 15 to 25 EUR depending on zones. Buy from the machine. Avoid the car ferry (traghetto) as a pedestrian, it is slower and docks in the same places.

Trains run from Milan to Como in 1 hour (13 EUR) and to Varenna in 1 hour 15 minutes (13 EUR). The line along the eastern shore is beautiful. Use the train to reach the lake from Milan, not to travel around the lake.

Buses are cheap (2 4 EUR) but slow and infrequent. Do not rely on them for a tight schedule.

Car is a mistake. Parking costs 20 to 40 EUR per day. Roads are narrow. Summer traffic jams can add 1 hour to a 15 km trip. Leave the car at home.

Budget

Mistakes to avoid

Buying ferry tickets at the counter in July. The queue can eat 40 minutes of your day. Use the self service machines. They are usually just beside the counter.

Eating in Bellagio's main square. A plate of pasta costs 22 EUR there and tastes average. Walk 5 minutes uphill to a side street and pay 14 EUR for the same quality.

Visiting Villa Carlotta in August. The gardens are brown. The best time is April and May when the azaleas and rhododendrons bloom. In summer the villa interior is crowded and hot.

Assuming the last ferry runs late. Check the seasonal timetable. The last ferry between Varenna and Bellagio in October can be as early as 6:15pm. Miss it and you are paying 60 EUR for a water taxi.

Booking a hotel in Como city and thinking you are on the lake. The city is at the southern tip. You will spend 1 hour each way on the ferry to reach central lake towns. Stay in Varenna or Menaggio instead.

Renting a car and driving to Bellagio on a Saturday in August. Impossible parking, insane traffic. I have seen people give up and drive back to Milan without even parking.