Lake Como

Is 2 days enough for Lake Como?

Barely. Two days give you enough time to see two or three towns properly if you move fast. You cannot do Como, Bellagio, and Varenna in one day without turning it into a ferry race. I have lived here for eight years. This plan skips the expensive tourist ferries that pack you in like tinned fish. You will use the public slow ferry (nave). It is cheaper, slower, but you see the villas from the water. One ferry ticket covers the day.

Day 1

1. Morning (8:00, 12:00): Varenna on foot.

Take the early train from Como San Giovanni station to Varenna (€4.80, 30 minutes). Arrive by 8:30. The town is empty until 10am. Walk the lakefront promenade to Villa Monastero (€8 entry, gardens open 9am). Skip the villa interior, the gardens are the prize. Then climb the steep staircase to the Castello di Vezio (€4, open 10am). The view across to Bellagio is worth the puff. Total walking: 2km. No motorbus needed.

1. Afternoon (12:30, 16:00): Bellagio without the crush.

Take the car ferry from Varenna to Bellagio (€4.60, 15 minutes). It runs every 30 minutes. Do not buy tickets for the fast hydrofoils, they cost double and stop at fewer places. In Bellagio, skip the main stairs (Piazza della Chiesa) between 1pm and 3pm, it is a human traffic jam. Instead walk down Via Garibaldi to the fishing harbour (Pescallo). Have lunch at Trattoria San Giacomo (€18 for pasta primavera, tables on the water). After lunch, visit Villa Melzi gardens (€10, open until 18:30). No queues if you go after 15:00.

1. Evening (16:30, 20:00): Slow ferry back to Como.

The public nave (slow ferry) leaves Bellagio at 17:10, arrives in Como at 18:30 (€6.20, 1h20min). Sit on the right side for villa views. Sunset is at 21:00 in July. No need to book the 17:10 departure, it is rarely full. For dinner, avoid the lakefront restaurants in Como (€28 for a sad risotto). Walk five minutes uphill to Via Borgo Vico 20, Osteria del Gallo. Order the osso buco (€22). Book this dinner before you leave in the morning.

Day 2

1. Morning (8:30, 12:00): Villa Carlotta, Tremezzo.

Take the 8:45 ferry from Como to Tremezzo (€5.50, 50 minutes). Villa Carlotta opens at 9:00. Pay €12 at the gate. No need to pre-book unless it is July or August (then buy online 24 hours before). Go through the rhododendron tunnel first, it is the main attraction. Then the azalea garden. Skip the sculpture gallery (dusty, poorly lit). By 11am the tour groups arrive. Be out by 11:30.

1. Afternoon (12:00, 15:00): Lenno and Villa Balbianello.

Walk east along the lake path from Tremezzo to Lenno (1.5km, 20 minutes flat). Lenno is quieter than Tremezzo. Have lunch at Crotto dei Platani (€14 for the fixed menu: minestrone, grilled fish, water). Then take the free shuttle bus (runs every 20 minutes, no schedule published but frequency is reliable) to Villa Balbianello (€14 entry, gardens only, open 10am to 18:00). The villa interior requires a timed reservation (€22). Do not bother. The garden terraces are the spot, the view from the loggia is where the James Bond film 'Casino Royale' was shot. No queues at 13:30.

1. Evening (15:30, 19:00): Ferry to Como and the funicular.

From Lenno pier, take the 16:00 ferry to Como (€5, 1 hour). Arrive at 17:00. Walk to the funicular station at Piazza Roma (10 minutes, flat). Queues are short after 17:30 (the upward trip takes 7 minutes). Round trip costs €5.50. The view from Brunate at sunset (21:00) is the best in the area. Bring a light jacket, the wind picks up at 900m. Last funicular down at 22:30. Eat a pizza in Brunate at Ristorante Pizzeria Capri (€12 margherita, open until 23:00).

Where to stay for this itinerary

• Como city (€90, 140/night), Best for train access and nightlife. Book a room on Via Milano (quiet pedestrian street). Hotel Engadina does basic doubles for €95.
• Varenna (€120, 180/night), Smallest town, most romantic. No cars noise. Albergo del Sole has lake-view rooms for €145.
• Bellagio (€150, 250/night), The prettiest but priciest. Do not stay here if you are on a budget. Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni is a splurge (€350) but the pool is free for guests.

Practical tips

• Transport: Buy the 24-hour lake pass (€29 for adults in 2026) if you plan 4+ ferry trips in one day. Single tickets are cheaper if you move slowly.
• What to pre-book: Villa Balbianello garden tickets (€14) for Day 2 afternoon. Do not pre-book the ferry, just buy at the pier. Do pre-book dinner at Osteria del Gallo in Como (Day 1).
• Mistake to avoid: Do not buy the 'Como Lake Card' (€45), it covers museums you will not visit and overpriced ferry combos. It is a trap for tourists.
• Water buses: Check the green 'ferry boat' signs at each pier. The blue 'express' signs are the fast hydrofoils (double price). Use the green ones.
• Toilets: Free public toilets exist only at ferry terminals. Most cafes charge €1.50 for non-customers. Carry a 50-cent coin for the pay toilets at Varenna pier.

FAQ

1. Can I visit Lake Como without a car?, Yes. The trains and ferries cover all main towns. Cars are a liability in July, parking costs €25 per day in Bellagio.
2. Is July too crowded?, Yes, but manageable if you start before 9am. The crowds hit Bellagio and Tremezzo from 11am to 4pm.
3. What is the cheapest meal option?, A focaccia from any forno (bakery) in Como costs €3.50. Eat it on a bench by the lake. No restaurant will beat that price.
4. Can I swim in Lake Como?, Yes, but only at designated lidos (€5 entry). Public free beaches exist near Domaso (north end, 30 minutes by ferry from Como). Water temperature in July is 24°C.
5. Is the 'Leonardo da Vinci' ferry worth it?, No. It is a hop-on-hop-off tourist ferry for €40. The public nave (€6) does the same route without the commentary.