Lake Como

Is 3 days enough for Lake Como?

Yes, but only if you accept one thing: you will not see every villa. Skip the private gardens of Balbianello unless you have a fourth day. Three days give you the three classic towns, one solid hike, and real lake rhythm. The fast ferries are your best friend. The slow ferries are your scenic secret. Do not rent a car.

Day 1: Como City and the Funicular

Morning (8:00 AM - 12:30 PM) Take the train from Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni. It costs EUR 4.80 each way and takes 40 minutes. Exit the station, walk 5 minutes to the ferry ticket office at Piazza Cavour. Buy your 72-hour pass (EUR 52). Do this before 9:00 AM. The line grows to 30 minutes by 10:00.

Ride the funicular up to Brunate at 9:30 AM. It departs every 30 minutes. Round trip costs EUR 5.50. At the top, walk 10 minutes to the Volta Lighthouse. The view over the entire lake is free. Bring a coffee from the cafe at the base (EUR 1.50).

Afternoon (1:00 PM - 5:00 PM) Walk back down through the old town. It takes 25 minutes downhill. Stop at the cathedral (free, quiet at 2 PM). Eat at a trattoria on Via Vittorio Emanuele, not on the waterfront. Pasta dishes cost EUR 12-14. Waterfront restaurants charge EUR 18 for the same plate.

Evening (6:00 PM - 9:00 PM) Take the slow ferry (line 1) from Como to Cernobbio. It runs every 40 minutes. The ride is 15 minutes and costs EUR 3.70 with your pass. Walk the lakeside promenade of Villa d'Este (you cannot enter the hotel, but the public path is free). Have an aperol spritz at Bar del Porto in Cernobbio for EUR 7. Take the last ferry back to Como at 8:30 PM.

Day 2: Bellagio and Varenna

Morning (8:30 AM - 12:30 PM) Take the fast ferry (Ravenna line) from Como to Bellagio at 8:45 AM. It takes 60 minutes. Arrive before 10:00 AM to beat the day trippers. Walk straight to Villa Melzi gardens. Entry costs EUR 8. The garden is quiet until 11:00 AM. Allow 45 minutes.

Skip the queue for Villa Carlotta. It is overcrowded by 11:00 AM and costs EUR 14 for a garden that is less interesting than Melzi. Instead, walk the Salita Serbelloni steps up to the Pescallo fishing village (20 minutes, flat path). Have a coffee at Bar Pescallo for EUR 1.80.

Afternoon (1:00 PM - 5:00 PM) Take the slow ferry from Bellagio to Varenna at 1:15 PM. It runs every hour and takes 15 minutes. First lunch at Al Prato in Varenna. Get the polenta with lake fish for EUR 15. The view from their terrace is worth the price.

Walk up to Varenna castle at 2:30 PM. The path is steep and takes 20 minutes. Entry to the castle ruins costs EUR 4. The view over the lake is better than from any villa. Go there.

Evening (6:00 PM - 9:00 PM) Take the 6:00 PM train from Varenna-Esino station to Como. It costs EUR 4.80 and takes 45 minutes. In Como, eat at Osteria del Gallo for a fixed price dinner at EUR 25 for three courses. Book by 2:00 PM by phone. No digital booking.

Day 3: The Greenway Hike and Lenno

Morning (8:00 AM - 1:00 PM) Take the slow ferry from Como to Lenno at 8:30 AM. The ride costs EUR 5 with your pass. Start the Greenway del Lago trail at Lenno. It is a 10 km walk along the lake to the town of Colonno. The path is flat, takes 3 hours, and passes olive groves and old stone houses. Carry water. There are two public fountains to refill.

Afternoon (1:00 PM - 4:00 PM) From Colonno, walk 10 minutes to the train station at Argegno. Take the train back to Como (EUR 3.60, 30 minutes). Have a late lunch at Trattoria del Cacciatore in Como, near the station. Their ossobuco costs EUR 18. Eat at 2:00 PM when the tourist rush ends.

Evening (5:00 PM - 7:00 PM) Walk the city walls of Como. Start at Porta Torre, walk to the Roman baths ruins (free, 10 minutes). Grab a gelato from Gelateria La Romana in Via Bianchi for EUR 3. Take the 7:00 PM train back to Milan.

Where to stay for this itinerary

Como city center (EUR 120-180 per night). Best for day 1 and day 3 train connections. Hotel Marco is a solid three star at EUR 140 with a lake view from the roof.

Varenna (EUR 150-220 per night). Quiet, romantic, and close to the day 2 ferry route. Albergo Milano costs EUR 180 and has a terrace over the water.

Bellagio (EUR 200-350 per night). Only if you want luxury and have a budget over EUR 250 per night. Grand Hotel Villa Serbelloni starts at EUR 320. The pool is nice, but the town is a circus by 11:00 AM.

Practical tips

Buy the 72-hour ferry pass at the Como ticket office before 9:00 AM. The electronic ticket machines often fail. The queue after 10:00 AM is 20 minutes or more.

Train tickets from Milan to Como are valid for any departure within 4 hours after purchase. Buy them at the station, not online, to avoid app fees.

Avoid Bellagio on Saturdays in July and August. The ferries are packed. Go on a Tuesday or Thursday instead.

Bring a refillable water bottle. Every town has free public fountains with safe drinking water.

Reserve dinner for the Osteria del Gallo in Como by calling at 2:00 PM on the day you want to eat. They do not take reservations online.

The Greenway trail has no shade for the first 2 km. Wear a hat and sunscreen.

Car traffic around the lake in summer is a nightmare. Do not drive. The train from Milan is faster and cheaper.

Scams: at the ferry ticket office, workers sometimes offer a day pass for EUR 36 when the 72-hour pass costs EUR 52 and includes unlimited boats. Do the math. The day pass only covers one zone. The 72-hour pass covers the whole lake.

FAQ

1. Can I visit Lake Como without a car?

Yes. The train from Milan to Como costs EUR 4.80. Ferries connect all towns. It is easier than driving.

1. Is Lake Como expensive for a 3-day trip?

Not if you eat where locals eat. Budget EUR 50 per day for food. The ferry pass costs EUR 52. Entry to villas costs EUR 8-14. Total around EUR 250 for three days.

1. Which villa should I visit if I only have time for one?

Villa Melzi in Bellagio. It costs EUR 8, is quiet by 10:00 AM, and has a real garden with camellias and a lake view. Skip Villa Carlotta.

1. Are the ferries on time in summer?

Usually within 5 minutes. The fast ferries are more punctual than slow ones. In July, slow ferries can be 10 minutes late due to crowds.

1. What is the best month to visit Lake Como?

Mid-May or mid-September. July and August are hot and crowded. June is okay. April can be rainy.