Rome

Which churches are worth entering in Rome?

Rome has over 900 churches. You will walk past dozens. Stop for about 12. The rest are for locals. The four heavy hitters are St. Peter's Basilica, San Luigi dei Francesi, Santa Maria del Popolo, and Santa Maria della Vittoria. Each has a specific reason. St. Peter's is the scale. San Luigi has three Caravaggio masterpieces. Santa Maria del Popolo has Caravaggio and a Raphael chapel. Santa Maria della Vittoria holds Bernini's Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. If you only see four, see these.

Is it free? What about hidden costs?

Most churches in Rome cost 0 EUR to enter. The exceptions: St. Peter's Basilica is free but the dome climb costs 10 EUR (lift to halfway) or 8 EUR (all stairs). The Vatican Museums are a separate, paid site. Santa Maria Maggiore charges 3 EUR for the Loggia delle Benedizioni. The Capuchin Crypt costs 8.50 EUR. San Clemente digs cost 10 EUR for the lower levels. Everything else is free. Do not pay anyone outside a church to "help" you skip a line. There is no skip line for a free church.

What is the dress code? Can you wear shorts?

No. No shorts above the knee. No bare shoulders. No tank tops. No miniskirts. Guards at St. Peter's and major basilicas enforce this strictly. They will block you. Carry a long scarf or a light cardigan. Men can wear long trousers even in July. Women can wear a dress that covers the knees. If you forget, many souvenir stalls near St. Peter's sell cheap shawls for 5 EUR. Do not try to sneak in. It wastes your time.

When do churches open? And close?

Most churches open around 7:00 AM to 8:00 AM. They close for lunch from 12:30 to 15:30. Then reopen until 18:00 or 19:00. St. Peter's Basilica is the exception: opens at 7:00 AM, closes at 19:00, no lunch break. San Luigi dei Francesi is open 9:30 to 12:30 and 15:00 to 19:00. Closed Thursday afternoons. Santa Maria del Popolo: 7:30 to 12:30 and 16:00 to 19:00. Santa Maria della Vittoria: 8:30 to 12:00 and 15:30 to 18:00. Always check the church door for a small handwritten sign. The internet lies.

What should you actually look at inside?

Do not wander. Go straight to the target. In St. Peter's: Michelangelo's Pietà (first chapel on the right), the bronze canopy (Bernini), and the dome (climb it for the view). In San Luigi dei Francesi: the Contarelli Chapel, left of the main altar. Three paintings by Caravaggio. The Calling of St. Matthew is the famous one. In Santa Maria del Popolo: the Cerasi Chapel (left of the high altar) with Caravaggio's Conversion of St. Paul and Crucifixion of St. Peter. Then find the Chigi Chapel designed by Raphael. In Santa Maria della Vittoria: the Cornaro Chapel on the left. Bernini's Ecstasy of Saint Teresa. The sculpture is lit from a hidden window. Marble folds like cloth.

How long do you need per church?

What is the one scam to watch for?

Outside St. Peter's Square, men with clipboards offer "free tours" of the basilica. They are not free. They end at a souvenir shop. Ignore them. Also, near the Trevi Fountain, men grab your wrist and force a bracelet on you. They demand 10 EUR. Shake your head and walk away. Inside churches, put your phone on silent. Do not take flash photos. Guards will shout at you in Italian. It is embarrassing.

Can you take photos?

Yes, with no flash. Flash damages the paintings. In St. Peter's, no tripods. In the Sistine Chapel (Vatican Museums), no photos at all. Guards enforce this loudly. For the Caravaggio paintings in San Luigi, you can take non-flash photos. But the room is dim. Better to buy a postcard for 1 EUR in the shop next door. The quality is higher than your phone can capture.

What about queues?

The line for St. Peter's Basilica can be 60 minutes long in peak season (April to October). Go at 7:00 AM. The door opens at 7:00. The queue forms around 6:45 AM. If you arrive at 10:00 AM, wait one hour in the sun. No shortcut exists unless you take a guided tour of the Vatican Museums (which ends inside St. Peter's). That tour costs 70 EUR and takes 3 hours. Only worth it if you also want the Sistine Chapel. For the free churches, queues are usually short or nonexistent. Except San Luigi dei Francesi on Saturday mornings. That line can be 15 minutes. Fine.

Which church outside the center is worth the trip?

Basilica of Saint Paul Outside the Walls. It is 20 minutes by metro Line B (Basilica San Paolo stop). It is free. Huge. The cloister is 4 EUR. It has a beautiful garden and 13th-century columns. Few tourists go there. You will have the place almost to yourself. Do this if you have a second day in Rome.

One last practical warning

Some smaller churches close without warning. A sign on the door may say "Chiuso per restauro" (closed for restoration). This happens often. Always have a backup plan. Keep a list of three churches in the same neighborhood. If one is shut, walk two blocks to the next.

Quick rule for your visit

Pick four. Go early. Cover up. Look at the art. Do not linger in the gift shop. Move on. Eat gelato. You have seen the best churches in Rome.