Verona

When to go

What to see

Arena di Verona. 10 EUR for general entry. 30 minutes inside is enough. The opera season runs June to August and tickets start at 25 EUR for the stone steps. Book opera tickets months ahead. Skip the paid audio guide. The free map tells you plenty.

Piazza delle Erbe. Free. 20 minutes to walk through and photograph the frescoed buildings. The market stalls sell tourist junk. Do not buy anything here.

Juliet's House. 8 EUR entry. You need 25 minutes inside. The courtyard is free to enter but the queue for the balcony photo can hit 40 minutes in summer. Book time slots online on the official site. Do not bother writing a letter. They burn them unread.

Castelvecchio Museum. 8 EUR. 1.5 hours minimum. This is Verona's best museum with a stunning bridge and a sculpture collection. Buy tickets at the door. No queue most days.

Basilica di San Zeno Maggiore. 4 EUR. 30 minutes. The bronze doors from the 12th century are better than anything in the cathedral. Skip the main Duomo unless you have extra time.

Teatro Romano. 6 EUR. 45 minutes. Climb to the top for a free city panorama. The archaeological museum inside is dusty but quiet.

Ponte Pietra. Free. 10 minutes. Walk this ancient Roman bridge at sunset. The view of the river and the hill is better than from any listed viewpoint.

3-day itinerary

1. Day 1 Morning: Arena and Piazza Bra. Start at 9 am when the Arena opens. You have it almost to yourself. Walk across Piazza Bra and grab a coffee at Caffè Borsari, not at the tourist traps with touts. Day 1 Afternoon: Walk through Piazza delle Erbe and up to Lamberti Tower. Climb the 368 steps. Pay 7 EUR. The lift costs the same and you miss the view through the Gothic windows halfway up. Day 1 Evening: Dinner at Osteria al Duca on Via Arche Scaligere. 30 EUR for two courses and wine. Book ahead.

1. Day 2 Morning: Castelvecchio. Arrive at 10 am and spend two hours inside. Cross the bridge and walk along the river to the Roman Theatre. Day 2 Afternoon: Climb the theatre hill to the Castel San Pietro viewpoint. It is free. The castle itself is closed for restoration until 2027. Have a picnic with supplies from the market at Via Pallone. Day 2 Evening: See a show at the Arena if it is opera season. Otherwise go to a wine bar in the Ghetto area. Try Enoteca Segreta for local wines at 4 to 8 EUR per glass.

1. Day 3 Morning: San Zeno and beyond. Walk 15 minutes north from the city center to the Basilica di San Zeno. Finish by 11 am. Then take bus 70 or 73 to the Giardino Giusti. 7 EUR entry. The formal gardens are quiet and the cypress avenue is perfect for photos. Day 3 Afternoon: Pack your bags. Have a late lunch at Trattoria dal Rampante near Porta Borsari. 12 EUR for a huge plate of bigoli pasta. Catch the train to Venice or Milan from Verona Porta Nuova station. Trains to Venice run every 30 minutes and cost 9 to 16 EUR.

Where to stay

Getting around

Walk. The historic center is 2 km across. From the Arena to Castelvecchio is a 10 minute walk. Do not take a taxi for any route under 1 km.

Buses. ATV buses run from 6 am to 11 pm. A single ticket costs 1.50 EUR and lasts 90 minutes. Buy tickets at tabacchi shops. Do not board without a ticket or the fine is 60 EUR.

Taxis. Only use official white taxis with a meter. From the station to the Arena costs around 12 EUR. Uber does not operate in Verona. The taxi app is UberPop but it just calls a normal taxi.

Bike rental. Verona has a bike share system called Verona Bike. 5 EUR for a day pass. The city is flat and safe for cycling except on the cobblestones near Piazza Erbe. Avoid bikes after dark.

Budget

Mistakes to avoid

Eating on Piazza delle Erbe. Every restaurant with a table on the square charges double. The food is reheated. Walk two streets into the Ghetto and pay half.

Climbing the Lamberti Tower at noon. The sun is directly overhead and the metal railings burn your hands. Go at 10 am or 4 pm.

Buying a VeronaCard without checking. The 24 hour card is good value only if you visit the Arena, Juliet's House, and Castelvecchio in one day. Skip the 48 hour version. It costs 30 EUR and you will not save money.

Falling for the arm bracelet scam. Young women near the Arena will try to tie a bracelet on your wrist and then demand 10 EUR. Say no firmly and keep walking.

Thinking Juliet's House is romantic. It is a fake balcony added in the 1930s. The real medieval house is interesting for the history but the love letter walls are a sticky mess.

Forgetting that Monday is dead. Most museums close on Monday except July and August. San Zeno is closed Monday. Plan your itinerary around that.

Driving into the center. ZTL (limited traffic zone) cameras will fine you 100 EUR automatically. Park at the Porta Palio car park for 2 EUR per hour and walk 10 minutes.